Stockholm part I

The Stockholm saga wouldn't be complete if I didn't report on part I. So here it is!

I arrived in Stockholm late on Thursday night, so my first Swedish culinary experience on this trip would be 'frukost' –breakkie. 

It really was a culinary experience since I also had to pass my first "So you think you're Swedish Fräulein? Prove it!" test. This came in the form of caviar. 

As a pescitarian, I am quite versed at trying all sorts of weird and (usually) wonderful seafood delicacies, from sea-cucumbers to caviar. So when Anna told me I would have to put caviar on my soft-boiled breakfast egg, I laughed. Pah! What kind of a test is that I thought! Until she pulled out this:

Caviar in a tube?! I became nervous, this wasn't the caviar/fish-roe I knew...This "caviar" is a paste made from smoked fish-roe so it has a very unique flavour. You fill the tip of your spoon with the paste, then you dip it in your egg and then you eat it! For once I really can't describe the flavour, but unlike most people (even the Swedes themselves) I kind of enjoyed it. Apparently this is like the Kiwi Marmite/Vegemite phenomenon, you either love it or hate it. I definitely didn't hate it, but to love it I think I would have to eat it regularly to get used to the flavour. 

Jam on cheese is also something very Swedish, something my family does for breakfast as well. 

Hej hej Jeanna & Anna! :)

After a hearty start to the day we embarked on our sightseeing adventure. Since Stockholm consists of 14 main islands, one is always by the water.

On the left of this map you can see Stora Essingen and beside it on the right a little island, its little sister, Lilla Essingen aka Anna's island. From here we made our way on foot to the city centre.

After seeing and learning about the Swedish government building and palace, it was high-time for a 'fika' in one of the alleys of Stockholm's old-town. Swedes loooove 'fikas', which are essentially quick coffee breaks. We chose a quaint little cafe called 'under Kastanjen' (under the chestnuts/chestnut trees).

We drank in the sunshine that managed to stream through the chestnut canopy, as well as coffee accompanied by almond tartlets. But since we still had a lot of exploring to do we quickly finished up 'fika' and moved on to some Swedish design.

Not before passing a marching band. Apparently this is a common occurrence! (I was also quite stoked about capturing the well-dressed gent!) 

Scandinavian interior design is admired the world over, and usually focuses on black and white with hints of natural wood to avoid them looking too clinical. Well 'Svenskt Tenn' is a shop that will make you rethink the "typical" version of Scandinavian design. 

Founded in 1924 by art teacher Estrid Ericson, Svenskt Tenn ("Swedish tin") gained recognition by selling modern pewter objects. Ten years later, an Austrian architecture professor jumped into the business to develop the product range. Josef Frank essentially redefined modernism into his own organic style:

He was against puritanical principals and feared that standardized interior design would make people all too similar. Frank represented a freer, more artistic style ideal, and he developed his own type of modernism with values such as comfort, hominess and a wealth of colour in focus. He perceived tubular steel furniture as a threat to humanity. 

What a clever duo! Here's what it looks like:

Indeed. Reeeaaally regret not getting this pillow! Didn't even think I could stuff it in my luggage...

They also had amazing fabrics and wallpapers.

You can also have tea and cakes at Svenskt Tenn, which is definitely on the list for next time! But this time Anna had already chosen the perfect place for lunch, 'Hermans'. Hermans offers a vegetarian lunch buffet for 120 Swedish Krona (around 14 Euros, that's cheap for Sweden). It's a little bit hippy-esque this place, with inspirational people and quotes-a-plenty already welcoming you in the stairwell.

You can see Bob, as well as Alice Walker up there.

But this is pretty much their motto. I agree.

Proof that vegetarian food can be anything but boring!

We loaded up our plates and enjoyed the view and each other's company. 

View onto the photography museum, also on the list for next time.

The highlight of the buffet had to be the veggie lasagna, and we went back for round two. Of course I was so stuffed after, that there was no inch left in my stomach for any of these treats...

...but we would return the next day for those anyway. All that was left to do was have a nap in one of their hammocks.

Finally a cafe that thought about the post-meal consequences, and how best to combat a full belly! :) In my opinion every food outlet should offer a "lie-down option". You gotta be quick though, there are only three hammocks, and I already had to fight a small kid for my spot (by "fight" I mean stare-down, don't worry no children were physically harmed!).

Unfortunately this picture breaks the continuity, since the keen observers amongst you will notice I am wearing the next day's outfit...but I really like this picture and it was taken on the same route on our way home to prepare the evening's Midsommar feast, so I figured it was allowed!

And that's a wrap! A conclusion to the Stockholm trilogy. On the note of trilogies, Anna tells me that Stieg Larsson wrote his trilogy in the cafe around the corner of her apartment building. Just a fun fact I thought. 

It was a pleasure to meet you Stockholm, unfortunately Munich remains my love for now, but puss puss until we meet again!

Yours truly,

Fräulein SoulFood x