Bohemian life
Phew! What a packed day! The Fräulein attended something extra special today. A literary/cultural walk through my new hood, Schwabing, organised especially for us publishing students. I learned some fascinating things:
As previously mentioned, Schwabing is renowned as the swanky and creative part of Munich, and it has its colorful past to thank for this reputation. Schwabing used to be its own town, before the grid of Munich engulfed it and claimed it as its own in 1890. From 1990 things got interesting! All sorts of aristocrats, artists, actors, writers, poets, philosophers, thinkers and revolutionaries resided in this part of town and all contributed toward the Schwabinger Bohème...oh how I love that word!
If like myself you didn't know what this Bohème I write of means, I couldn't find an English definition so in (slightly more than) a nutshell: The term came about in the 15th century in France, and referred to the Bohemians that immigrated, who were also known as the "gypsies". Since these gypsies (as we all know from Big Fat Gypsy Wedding) play to their own rules, the term was adopted by the inhabitants of Schwabing who liked to live life a little differently. It basically described the subculture of intellects, consisting mainly of artists, literarys and musicians who were into anti-social norms, and lived to break the rules. Kind of like the Hipsters of back then. But actually cool because they actually got shit done and not just pretended to be anti-everything, and dress the same to be different. Anyway...back to the real Bohemians.
Something the Bohemians were fabulous at were...parties! Not only did they spend hours discussing ideas and planning revolutions in the many cafes/bars that line the Schellingstrasse (the main street that conveniently runs through the university campus), but once these places closed, not before 3am, they would take their (drug and alcohol fueled) discussions into some rooftop atelier and continue there. Man what I would give to go back there for one night. In saying that, I can attest that some of this kind of behaviour can still be found in the Schwabing of today, as I recently experienced. That's another story.
There are hundreds of most interesting characters that called Schwabing home or their hang out once upon a time. Most of them "artists" of sorts, which all deserve recognition in their own right, but I wouldn't know where to begin. A couple however, stood out. The first, someone that leaves a bad taste in my mouth. That dictator that lead to the murder of millions, predominantly Jews. Yes, even the now "oh so lovely" Schwabing has NS ties. But I don't particularly want to dwell on that. Creepy to think he marched the same streets that I walk to uni.
The person that truly piqued my interest was Franziska Gräfin zu Reventlow, affectionately known as Fanny, the "Scandal Duchess" or "Duchess of Schwabing"...You can see why I was drawn to her (if not read here). Fanny, a genuine royal, writer, painter and translator had a strict upbringing and was known and treated as quite the Fräulein...naturally this caused her to rebel and she ended up breaking the rules by sharing an apartment with two men (unheard of in those days) and her "fatherless" child. I'm not really a rebel so I don't plan to follow in her footsteps entirely, but she did seem to lead an extraordinary life.
It may not be possible to prove I have blue blood running through my veins, but I do have Russian and Italian gypsy ancestors, so I like to think there could have been an affair with some royal in the mix.
Right, off for some classy evening activities...tomorrow is yet another public holiday (Father's Day and some "holyday"), man I swear this country has more holidays than workdays! We had a short week last week also. But I will be catching up on uni, since I am now officially doing "double-study"...
Peace & U.G.L.Y.
Yours truly,
Fräulein SoulFood (aka Duchess) x
As previously mentioned, Schwabing is renowned as the swanky and creative part of Munich, and it has its colorful past to thank for this reputation. Schwabing used to be its own town, before the grid of Munich engulfed it and claimed it as its own in 1890. From 1990 things got interesting! All sorts of aristocrats, artists, actors, writers, poets, philosophers, thinkers and revolutionaries resided in this part of town and all contributed toward the Schwabinger Bohème...oh how I love that word!
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| The "Alter Simpl", the famous pub where the "thinkers" of the time got together to publish the revolutionary satirical journals 'Simplicissimus'. |
Something the Bohemians were fabulous at were...parties! Not only did they spend hours discussing ideas and planning revolutions in the many cafes/bars that line the Schellingstrasse (the main street that conveniently runs through the university campus), but once these places closed, not before 3am, they would take their (drug and alcohol fueled) discussions into some rooftop atelier and continue there. Man what I would give to go back there for one night. In saying that, I can attest that some of this kind of behaviour can still be found in the Schwabing of today, as I recently experienced. That's another story.
There are hundreds of most interesting characters that called Schwabing home or their hang out once upon a time. Most of them "artists" of sorts, which all deserve recognition in their own right, but I wouldn't know where to begin. A couple however, stood out. The first, someone that leaves a bad taste in my mouth. That dictator that lead to the murder of millions, predominantly Jews. Yes, even the now "oh so lovely" Schwabing has NS ties. But I don't particularly want to dwell on that. Creepy to think he marched the same streets that I walk to uni.
The person that truly piqued my interest was Franziska Gräfin zu Reventlow, affectionately known as Fanny, the "Scandal Duchess" or "Duchess of Schwabing"...You can see why I was drawn to her (if not read here). Fanny, a genuine royal, writer, painter and translator had a strict upbringing and was known and treated as quite the Fräulein...naturally this caused her to rebel and she ended up breaking the rules by sharing an apartment with two men (unheard of in those days) and her "fatherless" child. I'm not really a rebel so I don't plan to follow in her footsteps entirely, but she did seem to lead an extraordinary life.
It may not be possible to prove I have blue blood running through my veins, but I do have Russian and Italian gypsy ancestors, so I like to think there could have been an affair with some royal in the mix.
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| Blossom beauty! Chestnut trees, used to keep the beer cool under their roots. |
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| More blossoms and my new favourite shop. |
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| Yeah you do! |
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| Another stunner of a building chilling in the 'hood! |
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| Finished off my day with these beauties! Blackberries that actually have flavour, gobbled up in one go... |
Right, off for some classy evening activities...tomorrow is yet another public holiday (Father's Day and some "holyday"), man I swear this country has more holidays than workdays! We had a short week last week also. But I will be catching up on uni, since I am now officially doing "double-study"...
Peace & U.G.L.Y.
Yours truly,
Fräulein SoulFood (aka Duchess) x
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